In Passage des Panoramas, neighboring Racines whose manager is the husband of - guess who – the manager of Noglu. Hello gossip. A manager who is allergic to gluten, hence the idea of opening a restaurant adapted to her diet.
Just another restaurant?
It is obviously the question that I asked myself when I discovered this newbie in an arcade that is not short of eateries: Le Diable Verre, Coinstot Vino, Racines, Gyoza Bar, l’Arbre à Cannelle, etc. That said, Noglu has a distinctive mark: it is a gluten-free restaurant; some dishes are also lactose-free; a valuable asset for people with intolerances and allergies. The problem is the price, to which I will return.
To eat what?
A cuisine that is good for the body and for the soul, because it is healthy, careful with the produce it uses, and generous. The menu is short, based on the day’s market (2 starters, 3 main dishes and 3 desserts). The tomato/raspberry and basil gazpacho is very unusual and has a lovely flavor, enriched by a dash of olive oil. Wild rice and raw vegetables with pistou is less surprising but just as summery and 100% detoxifying. To be enjoyed with gluten-free bread.
The veal grenadin with polenta and zucchini is prettily presented, well-cooked and hearty. The same goes for the cod with ginger and vegetable tagliatelle (carrots and zucchini cut in very fine slivers).
To end – a strawberry and rhubarb crumble served warm; maybe not very detoxifying but absolutely delicious.
A pretty restaurant, pleasant service and well-prepared cuisine but…a rather hefty check, a point that cannot be ignored in an area that has a lot of competition; at lunchtime, count between 25 and 30 Euros, depending on whether you take the starter and/or dessert on top of the main. Since indoors you will sit on a stool at a bar-table, you will not be very comfortable. A deal of 2 dishes at 18-20 Euros and 3 dishes at 20-23 Euros would be ideal if Noglu wanted to be competitive.
So, worth a visit?
I would not make it my regular haunt because of the price but I will go back from time to time since I work nearby. Nevertheless, this little restaurant has assets that are worth 5-7 Euros for some people:
- Gluten-free, even lactose-free cuisine from the daily market.
- The terrace of 2 tables for 4 customers each is quieter, because smaller, than the neighboring restaurants.
- The service is not insistent or in a hurry – a luxury when the neighbors tend to hurry you to increase turnover.
- Noglu is a pleasant spot to take tea and cookies or other pastries – gluten-free.
Good to know: open Mondays to Fridays from 10am to 6pm, brunch of Saturdays. From October Noglu should be open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. I will keep you informed by updating this post as I intend going back.
16 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris
Metro « Bourse » or « Grands Boulevards »