After the Holidays Comes the Fiesta

Noise! It is one of the major ingredients of any party in Spain. Firecrackers and drum rolls: there is a vague military air to the proceedings; of course, it’s September. In order to ease back into work mode after the obligatory August vacation, September in Barcelona has many pauses devoted to parties and celebrations. Street parties here and there, like the one in Poble Nou, an opportunity to wear summer dresses one last time, to decorate the streets, set up stands – to feel like the holidays are not off yet.

Then there is September 11^th which has been commemorated here much before the tragedy of the World Trade Center; one common point between the events in the NYC and in Barcelona is that the date commemorates a defeat*: the Catalan troops were defeated by the French-Spanish coalition in 1714 and the city taken back. The date is now the Regional Day of Catalonia, the “Diada”. In this year of economic crisis, the day will be an opportunity for nationalistic demonstrations and demands for independence. But also for fireworks…

Next Saturday will also be a festivity (of no interest to the Spanish): a real rugby match will take place in Barcelona (incredible!), a game between USAP and “Stade Toulousain” at the Olympic stadium of Montjuic; it will make a difference from the usual soccer matches… Meanwhile, all good wishes to Perpignan, after the talent displayed by the “Stade” last Saturday…

The beginning of fall also sees one of the patronal festival of Barcelona**, the Feast of “La Mercè”. “La Mercè” is Barcelona’s main feast day, with the obligatory “human pyramids”, pyrotechnics (“correfocs”), and parades… According to legend it commemorates the appearance of the Virgin to James I of Aragon in the 13^th century. This year the mayor has decided to stress “tradition” during the festival. The holidays are not over yet…

* The military history of Catalonia is scattered with defeats, which explains the paradox. Catalans sometimes say, in jest, that they are the Poles of Southern Europe.

** The other patron is Santa Eulàlia.